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5. The Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda - The Royal Palace
and Silver Pagoda compounds sit together behind the cren-
ellated yellow walls of the royal compound on the riverfront,
and are usually seen in a combined visit. Set aside 1-2 hours
to see both. Tour guides are available at the gate, and though
they charge a fee, are still recommended.
Within the Palace grounds the Royal buildings sit like
ornate islands rising from the manicured gardens.
The Palace serves as the King’s residence, a venue for
court ceremony and as a symbol of the Kingdom. It Chum Mey with Wayne Hansen
was established at this location when the capital was
moved to Phnom Penh in 1866. Khmer and European S-21 and The Killing Fields
elements as well as
echoes of the palace S-21 aka The Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum, Phnom Penh; Pol Pot,
in Bangkok are pres- the Hitler of Cambodia, and his minions, the Khmer Rouge were
ent in the design of responsible for the deaths of nearly three million Cambodians be-
the buildings. tween 1975 and 1979. Everyone who visits Phnom Penh needs to
visit this museum. Once a peaceful High School, S-21, became a tor-
Attached to the Pal- ture-interrogation centre from which just a handful survived. Intel-
ace compound, is the lectuals, clergy, doctors, professors were rounded up and shackled,
Silver Pagodas. So electrified, dismembered and beaten to death. Those who survived
named for its silver were taken to the killing fields for final extermination. S-21 is now
tiled floor, it is where Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum, in memory of those tortured here. It
the King meets with is a difficult place to visit, but, like other Holocaust Museums one
monks and holds Roy- must visit and learn about this evil part of the world’s history.
al ceremonies.
One of the very few survivors of S-21 was Mr. Chum Mey who
6. Khmer Massage. I highly recommend their mas- we found sitting by a table before we exited. He has written a
sages. They don’t use oil; they just use their strength. book “Survivor” and most of us purchased his book while he au-
They stretch you and pull you in all sorts of directions, tographed it and posed for a picture with each one of us. He is a
so it’s pretty strong, but once you’re done you feel Director of Victims Association of Democratic Kampuchea and their
completely relaxed. You can get a massage in your ho- whole purpose is to educate the young Cambodian children and
tel or on the city streets for around US$10-$20. everyone who visits to ensure that this never happens again.
7. Final Suggestions - Definitely bring mosquito repel- The Killing Fields, 15 kilometres from Phnom Penh, is a monument
lent, sunscreen and a hat. Money wise, tourists use US unlike any in the world - crammed with skulls and other bones un-
dollars; I didn’t even see the local currency. You don’t earthed from just one of the hundreds of Cambodian Killing Fields.
need much as it’s pretty cheap: around $2 for a tuk tuk, The government chose to leave most mass graves alone, so this is
$6-7 to have a great meal, and a beer is just $1-2. both cemetery and hallowed ground.
The state religion of Theravada Buddhism was first introduced to
The True Heart of Cambodia Cambodia during the days of the great Angkor kingdom and pros-
My trip to Cambodia was a combination of both edu- pered. For centuries, monks were the only literate people residing in
cational and cultural, but mostly, it was meeting the rural communities, and filled the important role of teachers. However,
local people. Despite their recent history, they are so in 1975, the Khmer Rouge massacred the majority of them and de-
friendly and open. Even if they don’t speak English, stroyed most of their temples and it was not until after the Vietnam-
they’ll look at you and smile. You learn to communi- ese invasion that Buddhism was once again openly practised.
cate through body language.
The Khmer Rouge were driven from power in 1979 by the Viet-
Every day in Cambodia I was constantly reminded namese, who occupied the country until 1989. Cambodia then
that while there’s a lot of pain and trauma in the regained control of its own affairs and began its long recovery.
country, there’s also a lot of resilience, strength and It is now a constitutional monarchy.
love. I finally realized that the true heart of Cambo-
dia does not lie in its killing fields, its temples or its Thinking about it now, I get goosebumps. It was a very intense
bloody history; yes, these things are an undeniable experience, but I think it’s important and good to understand
part of the country, but they do not define it. The true the local history and to remind yourself what humans are ca-
heart of Cambodia lies in its people. pable of doing to other humans.
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